We all dream of that perfect ski holiday when everything goes right. You know the one—travel from the UK goes smoothly—no queues, no crowds, no rush, with a comfortable, easy transfer. Then your accommodation completely exceeds your expectations—blissful comfort, superb service, fabulous food. Then, out on the slopes, the skies are blue, the wind has dropped, the snow is fresh, the slopes are uncrowded, and there’s a great mountain restaurant for those refuelling stops.
We all dream of that type of ski holiday. Almost every ski holiday company promises to provide it if we book with them. But how often do we actually get it?
Well, I struck (very) lucky this winter when I booked a trip to the stunning car-free village of Saas-Fee, partly because it’s famous for its peaceful atmosphere and scenic ambience, as well as reliable snow cover and great skiing.
To increase my chances of ski holiday perfection further, I booked into one of the best hotels in the Alps, The Capra, which combines modern luxury with a classic chalet concept for a “home from home” feel.
Easy Arrivals
Flying into Geneva, it’s an easy scenic train ride on Switzerland’s famously comfortable, punctual and uncrowded trains most of the way to Saas-Fee, with The Capra organising a hotel pick-up for a smooth arrival. Entering the hotel as my bags were seamlessly transported to my room (the same one in which Andrew Ridgeley stayed last year, I was told, when he was in the village as part of the celebrations of 40 years since the filming of Wham!’s Last Christmas video), I received a warm reception with welcome drinks and local cake. Cake always gets a stay off to a good start, doesn’t it?
Check-in was effortless, all digital with no paper added to the relaxed feel and also supports The Capra’s stringent environmental goals, which include locally sourcing everything from the wood used in the hotel’s construction, the workers who built it and wherever possible all the food, toiletries and everything else consumed and used within it.
Stunning Saas-Fee
Saas-Fee is an entirely unique resort its almost impossible for mountain lovers not to fall in love with. One of the highest traditional ski villages in the Alps, located up at 1,800m, it has always been car-free. When roads finally reached the village in the 1950s the locally wisely voted not to allow cars in, so it always has been.
It’s a beautiful, unspoilt village surrounded by some of the highest and most spectacular mountain peaks giving a tranquil, relaxed vibe. Well, you see it every December when the aforementioned Wham!’s Last Christmas video appears back on TV screens. Although filmed four decades ago now, not a lot has changed. There are still those breathtaking mountain views and a slower pace of life that’s ideal for unwinding.
A Warm Welcome
With an understated elegant design with a warm and welcoming reception, The Capra’s culture is one of luxury but the kind that’s relaxing and inviting. It’s perfect for skiers, wellness seekers, and those looking for peaceful Alpine beauty.
The Capra’s focus is a ‘home from home’ concept and the fact that all materials used are from the local area, including recycled wood, with local contractors involved at all stages, adds to that sense of locality. Even in the restaurant, 90% of all food used is sourced from within three hours of the hotel.
Offering an exceptional blend of luxury, sustainability, and comfort, the hotel offers a modern take on a chalet concept with a private spa, wine cellar and 2 Michelin-starred Brasserie 1809.
Art is prominent throughout The Capra, adding to its relaxing and inspiring ethos and there was also a library area where the books are rotated every six months. The hotel’s family facilities include the Fun Lab, perfect for kids large and small. There’s a Fooze ball, TV’s, books, games and my personal favourite for the big kid in me, a chair made from toy bears and animals.
Sumptuous Suites and Rooms
There’s an exclusive feel as The Capra has just 38 suites and rooms, offering an intimate and private experience. There are separate living areas in all suites, with options including family suites which boast family-friendly configurations including two bathrooms that can comfortably fit a family of four. There are also options for adjoining rooms for larger families or groups. There are also three unique and sumptuous Penthouse Suites as well as spacious signature Junior Suites.
The rooms use local, recycled wood, and smart lighting for optimal ambience. The lighting concept is about fire and ice and continues in the design throughout the hotel. The skylit bathrooms include indulgent bathtubs and locally-made toiletries which smell incredible and you’ll find lavender-infused cookies included for a calming bedtime touch.
The hotel’s balconies provide panoramic views of the majestic mountains, especially stunning at sunrise with pink and orange hues.
From my balcony, I was totally immersed in the mountain range.
My room indeed felt ‘home from home’. There’s a fully stocked bar and coffee-making facilities, lighting was spot on being able to control the ambience at one click.
With double doors from both the bedroom and lounge onto the balcony, the light was super and the view to die for. Watching the sunrise over the mountain in the morning creating pink and orange hues was a treat not to be missed and the perfect start to the day.
Seamlessly On To The Snow
Saas Fee’s ski area is one of the best. Extending to 100km of slopes, there’s something for everyone and a big vertical climbing 1,800m from the village to glacier-crowned slopes at 3,600m. It often posts one of Switzerland’s deepest snow depths and is so snowsure that athletes and ski experiences arrive in early autumn to train, its glacier ski season starts in August each year.
For guests like me lucky enough to be staying in The Capra it’s a seamless start to the ski day as getting your rental equipment is super easy with the hotel’s partner branch of InterSport a short walk away (or take the hotel trolley) and stocking a selection of the latest and greatest new season ski kit to choose from. Your selection then magically appears in The Capra ski locker at the bottom of the slopes ready for clipping in and heading out for the day.
Saas Fee isn’t quite your private mountain to explore but with its wide smooth slopes and fast, sweeping red runs with minimal crowds it kind of feels like it.
I got particularly lucky with the conditions, again another tick on the checklist for the perfect ski holiday …and one of the most crucial ones. The glacier skiing was superb and the snow conditions were amazing. It hadn’t snowed for a fortnight when I was there and yet the conditions were still excellent I was very pleasantly surprised. I particularly loved skiing over the glacier with the glinting colours of the ice changing as the sun rose and fell over the mountain. With 18 four-thousand metre peaks surrounding the ski area, from every angle you feel captured by the mountain.
You can also take part in incredible snow-walking tours over the glacier if you fancy taking a deeper look. Lasting about three 3 hours and led by an expert guide you’ll see still more incredible sights and learn about glaciology.
Thankfully The Capra’s culinary wonderfulness (of which read more below) extends beyond the hotel buildings and onto the mountain, as it also runs the Spielboden mountain restaurant high up at 2,448m. Perfect for both a quick drink stop or a delicious and well-deserved lunch, here the dining highlights include Tagliatelle Bolognese with truffle fries and apple strudel to follow.
Back at The Capra’s ski lockers at the bottom of the slopes, there are coffee and toilet facilities to round the ski day off perfectly and more small things to make life a little easier. You can call the hotel at any time from there to come and bring you back.
Sublime Spa-time
After ski time, as with most perfect ski holidays, the wellness and spa experience is a big part of the experience. At The Capra’s wellness team in the Peak Health Spa, led by manager Caroline Lecturer, create and develop your own personal wellness journey to make the most of your time during your stay and a feeling of fabulousness you can take back home with you afterwards. The Peak Health philosophy is based on the research of a team of medical and wellness experts around the globe, taking a holistic approach to reset health treatments that are both tailored to your personal needs and also thoughtfully presented with additional suggestions.
The focus for my stay was on improving my quality of sleep and relaxation and the hotel’s great team and facilities certainly helped with that. The Capra offers indulgent wellness facilities with its Peak Health Spa offering a focus on holistic treatment. I joined in daily yoga and pilates classes and enjoyed access to a dedicated mind-body wellness studio. There are also wonderful spa facilities including an indoor pool, outdoor hydrotherapy pool, sauna, steam room, salt therapy room and fully equipped gym. There are also foot hydrotherapy facilities, specialised showers, three treatment rooms, and multiple relaxation areas.
Divine Dining
Another part of the perfect ski holiday is great food and again this is an area where The Capra excelled, so another box ticked in my search for the dream trip.
The breakfast selection and service are first rate, of course. It was served a la carte with a delicious range of local produce. My personal favourite was The Capra Yoghurt served with homemade granola and berry compote.
Then afternoon tea in the bar lounge is not to be missed with local cakes, wine and an enticing Genepi trolley.
Everything was excellent in the evening too, from the appetisers including local chicken pate and cheese puff bites along with the most delicate of sparking wine served in the hotel lounge prior to dinner, through to the full Tasting Menu with wine served in the hotel’s 1809 brasserie. From this, my taste buds welcomed the raclette bites and the petite quiche with mini beef tartare. My favourite wine from the tasting was the Amphore by Chateau Constantin, a Chardonnay from Johannisberg grapes originating from the South of France that’s aged for six months in a terracotta amphora which gives it richness and minerality.
The local sparkling wine (Brut Millésimé Blanc de Blanc Réserve) was a firm favourite, but there were so many local varieties to choose from in the extensive wine cellar it was a good that The Capra’s expert sommelier was on hand to advise and guide me through the collection.
The wine cellar also offers dining options with cheese specialities in the legacy of Astrid Binder’s Dü, one of the most renowned local fondue and raclette speciality restaurants kept alive here. For me, the freshly cooked bread with rosemary and sun-dried tomatoes served with locally produced butter was a personal favourite.
Beyond the tasting menu and that fondue, back in the 1809, my firm favourite was the caramelised onion soup with Valais regional cheese and bread, followed by the duck with cranberry, celery and carrots.
To finish off any meal there are truly heavenly chocolates exclusively made for the Capra by the distinguished chocolatiers Du-Rhone and Raphael Thoos.
The Perfect Ski Holiday
However hard we plan and whatever the holiday companies promise, the perfect ski holiday can be an elusive thing to achieve. Random factors like the weather and the mood of our travel partners can be factors you can’t control.
But you definitely can increase your chances of finding snowy perfection and choosing a stunning destination like Saas-Fee, which is one of the more stress-free destinations to reach as well as being wonderful to stay and ski in, will increase your chances.
Then staying in The Capra increases your chances still further. With its warm welcome, wonderful rooms, dining, spa facilities and 101 other plus points, you can actually have a wonderful holiday even if the weather or your travel companions aren’t in top form.
But hopefully, they will be and you’ll enjoy a perfect ski holiday too.
Capra.ch
