There’s nothing like travelling on Swiss trains to help you unwind ahead of a ski trip, and then there was my destination – the ultimate chillax.
Lenk is a route less travelled by British skiers and boarders, but chances are that that will change in future seasons. It’s the last stop at the end of the rail route, and we found ourselves in the heart of the Simmental Valley, with a 360 mountain surround. There was also zero through traffic which added calming zen.
Stepping down from the train the stillness halts you. Time to stop, gaze and ride the rush of pure fresh Alpine air. The resort is in the Bernese Highlands and is the area’s highest region (1,068 metres above sea level), sheltered by the Wildstrubel Massif. Soon after arriving we went to the Simmenfälle waterfall, a stunning, deafeningly powerful spectacle, with water careering down a 40m drop. You could hear it from our nearby dinner venue, the Restaurant Simmenfälle, and it added a welcome water medley to our first evening’s menu.
The restaurant serves hearty Swiss food, with filling portions of fondue soon melting away any calorie concerned moments. It also has a rule – go ‘old school’ – with no WiFI or mobiles allowed. We saw it as a detox opportunity, and a time to hear more about the area. And this is what we learnt… St. Stephan, Boltigen-Jaunpass, Oberwil, Weissenburg-Därstetten and Erienbach are also in the Lenk-Simmental region, and there’s 205km of groomed pistes.
A range of rails and obstacles in the Gran Masta Park keep freestyle skiers and snowboarders buzzing and beginners can get their bearings on the Betelberg (there’s also a ski and snowboard cross course here). The wide pistes at Metsch are good for improvers and carvers. And with the link to Adelboden – over the Hahnenmoos Pass – there’s also plenty of options for ski touring and speedy downhills for experienced skiers. These include World Cup skier Joana Hählen, who is now the area’s brand ambassador. Those wanting to keep their skis skinny will find 60kms of cross-country trails, which includes 5km on the high altitude Betelberg trail.
I was out on the Metsch slopes the next day, enjoying the eye-candy scenery. It was great snow for later in the season, and boy, did we love that powder. We also discovered the Betelberg has a 9km toboggan run, which my friends wooshed down. Fancying something less zippy, I took time out on the Gryden circular hiking trail, and was soon boot deep in amazing scenery, silent except for the snow crunch underfoot. The 7.5 km path is a geological heavyweight, famed for its ‘other-worldly’ crater-like rocks and panoramic mountain views, which sit side by side with gentle alpine scenery.
This high-Alpine wonder starts and ends at the Leiterli Mountain Station, which was also the site of something very important. Our lunch stop…
The Berghaus Leiterli Restaurant gave us the chance to share our mornings’ adventures over a tasty bite (or more). The fresh, Swiss-style mountain food, included dishes like Älplermagronen (mountain cheese pasta), fruit tarte, rosti, salads and warming soups. The restaurant also has great views of the Wildstrubel massif, and you can feel history’s immense layer cake as you gaze on out.
Here’s an archeological wonder – finds at the area’s Schnidejoch Pass date to around 4,500BC, which makes Ötzi the iceman almost a ‘young un’. More recently (well, in the past 350 years), the region’s powerful mineral springs have been attracting tourists …and there we were…but we were a minority.
Swiss guests make up 95% of Lenk’s visitor numbers, drawn to the authentic pretty village by its relaxed atmosphere, sporting opportunities and wide programme of events. Each Tuesday night in February the snow sports show sees sports instructors showcase their skills with formations, fireworks and a torchlit mountain descent. There’s also an international sled dog race in February, and regular ski and snowboard competitions.
Family-friendly Simmental also has many ‘where to stay’ options, from campsites to five-star superior hotels. We hit the bullseye at the Hotel Lenkerhof (pictured below) – a gourmet spa hotel. The staff were welcoming, it was very relaxed, the views stunning…and the menu, well that was a different level. You get a strong sense of the building’s history, while benefitting from all of its 21st century treats.
The spa was a great unwind after time out on the mountains, and the Gault Millau award winning food at Restaurant Spettacolo, definitely something to long remember. Lenk also offers fat biking, snow shoeing, biathlon, paragliding and riding, as well as indoor climbing and bouldering, swimming, bowling and more.
But we had to save these treats for another time as this was a two-destination trip…and the train was calling. Lenk to Wengen takes just under two and a half hours – a chance to take in the snow-covered terrain and traditional mountain villages en route to the heart of the Bernese Oberland.
Jungfraujoch Luftaufnahme Sphinx
It’s a hop and a skip by fast train at Lauterbrunnen and then a jump …on to a cog-wheel train. The excitement ramps as you chug up through the ice-clad trees, glimpsing increasingly dramatic views of the valley beneath. Arriving in Wengen is also special, as the car-free village has incredible views out of the surrounding Alpine vista.
There’s around 100 kilometers of groomed piste just waiting to be skied here, so we soon set forth. Sadly cloud cover restricted some time on the slopes, but the snow was good and gave a good taste of what to return for. Folk with more time will discover there’s 200 kilometres of pistes in the Jungfrau region, so plenty left to discover!
Those interested in racing will know this place hosts the annual Lauberhorn Downhill Ski Race – a historic and challenging course and the longest on the FIS Ski World Cup circuit. Those who get their kicks from scenery will refer you to the big three, as Wengen sits at the foot of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains. Whatever you prefer, the setting is knockout, set against a generally sunny backdrop…and you don’t have to ski to get atop the mountain.
The Jungfraubahn railway climbs on up from Wengen to the Jungfrau summit (Europe’s highest railway station.at 3,454 meters). You are now in a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where you can view the Aletsch Glacier from the Sphinx observation deck, and take a walk out on the glacier’s plateau. Further cold delights are found in the Disney-like Ice Palace – a journey inside the glacier, along the carved blue/white corridors, to see the large selection of ice sculptures. We dined in the Crystal Restaurant, where Swiss cuisine was served alongside a wide range of international dishes, and some very good wine. It was fine dining with a phenomenal backdrop, with the restaurant’s large windows showcasing the snow-drenched peaks. But clouds came and went quickly, wrapping the view in temporary total white outs as nature played a cheeky ‘peak a boo’ with the scenery. Going up top is well worth it, but it’s also worth a slide on the locals mode of transport while you’re around.
In use in this area for over 100 years, the Velogemel was invented by a postman to ease his winter travels. So think bike, with a wooden frame and handlebars but runners rather than wheels. Some might say it’s terrifying as you aim to sit upright and ease yourself forward down the mountain. It’s definitely ‘hairy’, as you have to use your legs for balance…and to break. Note to self, sturdy shoes – essential!
Ice rinks, curling, tobogganing, bowling…Wengen has all these opportunities, but there’s only so much a gal can take, and the 5-star Grand Hotel Belvedere was calling. During our stay it was partially open, but is now fully operational with a spa and a fresh take on its charming Art Nouveau origins. Restored frescoes and chandeliers blend tradition with luxurious Alpine-style aesthetics and fine dining, with staff offering an attentive, friendly service.
Summing up this two-centre trip, I think back to the people pleasing ice palace and the peace of the Lenk mountains, add in hotel luxury and quirky opportunities, one thing is for sure – Switzerland’s ‘poppin’ off’!
Factbox
Switzerland Tourism
For more information on Switzerland, visit switzerland.com
Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS)
SWISS connects Switzerland with the world, offering more than 160 weekly flights from London Heathrow, London City, Manchester, Birmingham and Edinburgh to Zurich or Geneva. One-way fares start from £76 to Zurich and from £54 to Geneva, and include all taxes, fees and surcharges, one piece of checked luggage weighing up to 23kg and one piece of hand luggage. SWISS are also happy to transport your first set of ski or snowboard equipment and boots free of charge in addition to your standard free baggage allowance subject to availability (excluding hand-luggage-only fares). swiss.com
Swiss Travel Pass
The Swiss Travel Pass entitles you to unlimited travel in Switzerland by train, from October 2025 to March 31 2026. Receive an extra day’s free travel when you purchase a four-day pass, or an extra two days’ travel when you purchase an eight-day pass.
