Saas-Fee & Saas-Grund: The Pearl of the Alps

I’ve been fortunate enough to ski in hundreds of resorts across the Alps, but every so often you find one that leaves you a little spellbound. Saas-Fee – and its quieter neighbour Saas-Grund – is one of those places. They call it the Pearl of the Alps, and it’s not hard to see why.

Getting There

One of the things that strikes you about Saas-Fee is how it manages to feel both remote and accessible at the same time. The village sits at the end of a valley, surrounded by 13 peaks over 4,000m. It feels like you’re entering a secret mountain world.

Yet getting there isn’t difficult. From Geneva or Zurich, I hopped on the Swiss rail network to Brig, then transferred up the valley by bus. The journey itself is half the experience: watching vineyards give way to high Alpine cliffs and glaciers as you climb.

Some UK visitors now fly into Milan Malpensa, which is actually a shorter transfer than Zurich, or even into the emerging SkyAlps routes to Bolzano. However you choose to arrive, once you step out of the transfer bus into Saas-Fee’s car-free streets, you realise this isn’t your typical ski resort.

First Impressions

Saas-Fee & Saas-Grund: The Pearl of the Alps

Saas-Fee (c) Saastal Tourismus AG-Amarcster Media

Cars aren’t allowed in Saas-Fee, so the first thing you notice is the absence of noise. Electric taxis whirr past, and horse-drawn sleighs add a fairytale touch. The village is all narrow streets, old chalets with heavy wooden balconies, and snow piled high against the walls. At night, the place glows – warm light spilling out of bakeries, wine bars and restaurants, the snow reflecting everything back with that crisp Alpine brightness.

It feels both authentically Swiss and quietly international. Walking down the main street, you’ll hear snatches of French, German, Italian, and English. It’s the kind of place where families pop into the boulangerie for fresh bread while ski guides clink glasses at après-ski bars. There’s no manufactured gloss here – it’s lived-in, welcoming, and human.

Just down the valley lies Saas-Grund, a smaller, more affordable base that shares the same towering mountain backdrop. If Saas-Fee is the lively headline act, Saas-Grund is the quiet acoustic set – relaxed, family-friendly, and with those same million-dollar views.

Skiing Saas-Fee

The skiing here is, quite simply, a joy. Saas-Fee boasts around 150km of pistes, which might not sound enormous compared to the 600km mega-domains of the Alps, but the quality and consistency more than make up for it.

Snow reliability is its trump card. With pistes rising to 3,600m on the Allalin Glacier, this is one of Europe’s most snow-sure resorts. I’ve skied Saas-Fee in November, April and mid-winter, and the conditions have always delivered.

For intermediates, Saas-Fee is heaven. Wide, perfectly groomed blues and reds snake down from the glacier, offering long, flowing descents where you can really let your skis run. The Hohlaub and Morenia sectors are perfect for cruising, with jaw-dropping glacier views at every turn.

Advanced skiers aren’t short of challenges either. There are a handful of steep black runs, some serious off-piste terrain (with a guide), and a freeride culture that makes the most of the big snowfalls the valley enjoys. The glacier run itself, starting at 3,600m, is a must-do: a leg-burning descent that feels endless, all while the peaks of the Mischabel range tower above you.

Unique Experiences

What really elevates Saas-Fee is the little touches. I joined the sunrise ski one morning – catching the first lift before dawn, eating breakfast by candlelight in the revolving restaurant at 3,500m (yes, the highest revolving restaurant in the world), and then carving down untouched pistes in the pink glow of sunrise. It’s not just a ski run – it’s a memory you carry with you.

Saas-Fee is also one of the few Alpine resorts where you can ski on the glacier in summer. Race teams from around the world train here, and it means the season stretches from autumn well into late spring. For a snow reliability obsessive like me, that’s gold dust.

Saas-Grund – The Quiet Gem

While Saas-Fee grabs the headlines, I always encourage people to spend time in Saas-Grund. Its ski area, Hohsaas, rises to 3,200m and offers long, rolling red and blue runs that are blissfully quiet.

For families, this is a stress-free alternative – no crowds, friendly instructors, and a ski school that has the patience of saints. For more experienced skiers, it’s a great day trip – I loved taking the top lift and simply standing still for a moment, gazing out across 18 four-thousanders on the horizon.

It’s not about adrenaline here – it’s about the scenery, the peace, and the joy of skiing with space to yourself.

Accommodation

Both villages offer a mix of options. Saas-Fee has boutique hotels, spa retreats, and traditional chalets. Because the village is compact, you’re rarely more than a short walk or electric taxi ride from the lifts. I stayed in a small family-run guesthouse with hearty breakfasts and a wellness suite – the kind of Alpine hospitality that makes you feel part of the furniture.

Saas-Grund, by contrast, is a budget-friendly base. The Montella Hotel & Apartments offers clean, comfortable rooms with knockout views. It’s a great option for families or groups who’d rather spend their money on lift passes and fondue than luxury accommodation.

Food & Après

One of the pleasures of Switzerland is always the food, and Saas-Fee doesn’t disappoint. On the mountain, you’ll find rustic huts serving rösti, raclette and fondue – hearty Alpine classics that taste twice as good at altitude.

The revolving restaurant at 3,500m deserves a special mention – you sit down, and the world slowly spins past your window: glaciers, peaks, endless blue sky. It’s surreal, and it’s wonderful.

Après-ski in Saas-Fee is lively without being wild. Bars like the Ski Hut are perfect for a post-run beer, often with live music and a crowd that skews international but relaxed. Saas-Grund is quieter – you’re more likely to end the day with a glass of wine by the fire than dancing on tables. But that’s the beauty of this valley: you can have both, depending on your mood.

Who Will Love It?

So who should put Saas-Fee and Saas-Grund on their shortlist? Honestly, almost anyone.

Families will love the car-free safety of Saas-Fee and the gentle, confidence-building slopes of Saas-Grund.
Couples will fall for the romantic charm of the village and its candlelit restaurants.
Intermediates will thrive on the endless reds and blues that dominate the piste map.
Experts will relish the glacier runs, freeride terrain, and the chance to ski powder late into the season.
Non-skiers aren’t forgotten – with scenic trails, spas, and even horse-drawn sleigh rides, there’s plenty to enjoy without clicking into skis.

Final Thoughts

The Alps are full of famous names – Zermatt, Verbier, St. Moritz – and rightly so. But there’s something about Saas-Fee and Saas-Grund that feels like discovering a secret. It has all the ingredients of a world-class ski holiday – snow reliability, dramatic scenery, varied terrain – but wrapped in a charm and authenticity that’s becoming increasingly rare.

For me, Saas-Fee is the kind of place I’ll keep returning to. Not just for the skiing – though that alone would be enough – but for the feeling it gives you: of stepping into an Alpine village that’s managed to hold onto its soul, even as it welcomes the world.

If you’re looking for somewhere that combines beauty, accessibility, and that indefinable Alpine magic, then yes – the Pearl of the Alps really does live up to its name.