I thought I knew all there is to know about Les 3 Vallées in France and its ski resorts from lofty, snow-sure Val Thorens to pretty St Martin de Belleville with its illuminated bell tower. After all, I can’t count the number of times I’ve visited the world’s largest ski area and explored most of its 600 km of slopes (minus the steepest of these challenging expert black runs) which are open from December to Easter.
I’ve seen it grow as I have from staying at basic chalet accommodation in British-loved Méribel to five-star Annapurna, one of the plushest hotels in Courchevel 1850, where skis are very helpfully placed out on the snow for you at the start of each day and boots pulled from your feet on return. I also thought that I’d found a happy compromise price wise at what’s deemed family-friendly Les Menuires, with its ski-in, ski-out, purpose-built accommodation.
But blow me – perhaps the French want to keep this secret to themselves, but just a 25-minute gondola descent from Méribel, is the hidden gem (and surprisingly affordable) Brides-les-Bains.
Brides-Les-Bains
I’ve since learned it was an Olympic village in 1992, but until last season, it was a complete unknown to me, perhaps as being lower than the other resorts, you don’t ski down to it.
Yet the big pluses here are that not only do you enjoy less risk of altitude sickness, but you’ll also not faint from the cost of your accommodation bill which is likely to be 30-50% less than the neighbouring high-end resorts a little closer to the ski action.
Weigh to go
Visit this pretty spa town when the snow isn’t here and you’re likely to feel quite slim as this is where the clinically obese come to lose weight with specially purposed diets, healing thermal waters and exercise regimes. Yet, in winter, there is no such pressure (thank goodness) and you can gorge guilt-free on as much rich food as you like, especially without an elevated price tag and with the premise that you’ll be burning off extra calories on the slopes.
I arrived with a group of friends in mid-March, on a spring-like day when it was warm enough to eat Croque Monsieur and drink beer al fresco in the sunshine. Our chosen accommodation was the remarkably reasonable four-star Golf Hotel, where doubles are priced from just over 100 euros including a generous buffet breakfast.
(Golf Hotel – Image Copyright Bridget McGrouther)
My extremely spacious room in this historic treasure had what I reckon is one of the best views in the Alps – overlooking the peaks and valley below from its elevated position, while you could hear as well as see the gushing River Doron if you kept your window open for that bracingly fresh mountain air.
Admittedly, despite its central location (with a very handy pedestrian lift saving a steep hike back uphill), it was around a 10-minute walk to the gondola, although we were able to hire lockers at the handy Intersport ski rental shop just below the Olympe station meaning that at least we didn’t need to carry all our gear back and forth.
On a high
The Olympe gondola recently received a multi-million-euro upgrade and now runs a little faster and more smoothly than it did to Méribel and back from mid-December to mid-April. It’s quite a gentle start to the day gliding in a gondola over the trees, rooftops, farms and eventually pistes when we drew closer to the hub that is Méribel.
(Meribel ©Sylvain-Aymoz)
If you’re in ski school, this is where you’d meet your instructor, though taking at least 45 minutes from the hotel door to where you put on your skis does mean an earlier start is required for 9.15 am meetings. But, of course, the advantage is that you still have the expansive and guaranteed snow of the high Three Valleys ski area on the doorstep for a snip compared to the less aware, or perhaps just better off, clientele staying in the five-star luxury of Courchevel.
That budget saving meant to me that we could splash out on other luxuries – like a Michelin Star lunch at the intimate and stylish, ski-in Le Farcon in Courchevel La Tania where you don’t even need to take off your ski boots. Yet for 68 euros per head, even this felt like a bargain, especially when each course of Chef Jukien Machet’s tasting menu was sublime.
If you agree that’s good value, you’ll be even happier to learn that this talented chef also runs the even less expensive Bistrot Machet and new for last season, the inspirational and popular outdoor Mach’ Burger food stand – as far from junk food as you can imagine.
Out and about
It was quite the treat, but families needn’t sweat, as on other sunny days, we bought delicious patisserie lunches to eat at the many picnic areas now introduced on the mountain slopes with comfy seating and panoramic views, saving on more pricy indoor restaurants and snack bars. One of the most stunning panoramas with picnic tables, hammocks and original ‘heart huts’ is the summit of the dramatic Roc de Fer.
Children are welcomed, too, on the slopes with gentle nursery areas, easy magic carpets and no less than 43 fun runs including themed routes such as the Animal Trail and Bump ‘n’ Jump course. Half of the pistes are green and blue while there are also six snowparks and 12 toboggan areas, as well as other activities such as snow shoeing and dog sledding for those wanting a break from skis and snowboards.
Grand Spa Thermal
Hitting the jackpot
Back in Brides-les-Bains at the end of a busy ski day, the Grand Spa Thermal is one of the country’s biggest and best including several steam rooms, saunas, bubble benches, massage jets and outdoor hot tubs plunged amid majestic mountain scenery – well worth the 35 euros entry fee. We splashed out too on a 30-minute après-ski massage for 75 euros, just what was required to ease the rigid calf and thigh muscles I’d forgotten I ever had.
This season it’s opening late on a Thursday until 10 pm, though unfortunately will now have to be shared with anyone taking the opportunity of a free bus connecting the resort with Méribel to make it easier for all L3V skiers to wallow in its healing waters.
Brides-les-Bains casino
Après-ski entertainment is definitely low key in Brides-les-Bains, although it does have the only casino in Les 3 Vallées with its basement club the Blue Night for those who want to party. Best of all, the resort also organises 50 hours a week of entertainment, much of it free, including open-air cinema, mulled wine evenings, guided walks, relaxation sessions and DJ sets.
After a free concert at the park bandstand on what coincided with St Patrick’s Day, we were more than happy to watch a Six Nations Ireland v Scotland international rugby game on TV in a busy, friendly pub, especially when Scotland gave the favoured side a close run for their money. Dinner, too, in Le Golf’s elegant dining room was delicious, as well as drinks in the sociable bar, while other recommend restaurants for local specialities like tartiflette and fondue include Le Bis Trop Savoyard and Le Val Vert.
Gourmet food, fine wine, the world’s most extensive ski area, France’s biggest spa and the best view from such a cosy, affordable hotel certainly gave our bargain winter break the feel of a Champagne lifestyle on a mulled wine income. Santé!
Brides-Les-Bains
Fact Box
More Info: les3vallees.com or brides-les-bains.com
Accommodation: golf-hotel-brides.com
A one-day 3 Vallees ski pass costs 75 euros per adult, while six days cost 375 euros (lesevallees.com/en/skipass).
Getting there: It’s eight hours by Eurostar from London to Moûtiers, just 5 km from the village. Chambéry Airport is closest at around 90km, but Geneva (120 km), Lyon (150 km) and Grenoble (160 km) are all within striking distance, with bus, shuttle or private transfer services.
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