Some ski trips are about chasing powder days. Ours wasn’t. Travelling to 3 Zinnen Dolomites in April with two friends, we were looking for something different: sunshine, empty slopes, good food, and a dash of adventure before the skis went back in the loft for summer. What we found was a small but brilliant ski region that feels like a secret you can’t quite believe hasn’t already been discovered by everyone else.
Boutique Beginnings with SkyAlps
©KOTTERSTEGER
The adventure started at the airport. Normally, flying to a ski resort means queues, stress, and a desperate search for somewhere to balance your skis and your coffee. But with SkyAlps, everything felt relaxed – boutique, even. Fewer passengers, friendlier crew, and a genuine sense of occasion. Someone actually smiled when they handed me a drink, which doesn’t happen on budget carriers.
Landing in Bolzano, we were practically in the mountains already. From there, we’d booked a Südtirol Transfer shuttle – no lugging bags on buses, no confusing train connections. A driver was waiting, loaded the skis, and in just over two hours we were pulling up outside our hotel in Vierschach. For a quick getaway, it couldn’t be easier.
Hotel Joas: The Dream Base
Our digs were the Hotel Joas, and I’ll be honest – it stole the show. Ski-in/ski-out hotels promise a lot, but this one really delivers. Open the ski room door, clip in, and you’re metres from the lift. Even better, it sits in a magical spot overlooking the valley, with the jagged Dolomites right outside your window.
Inside, it’s a mix of modern Alpine chic and family-run warmth. Wooden beams, big windows, a panoramic spa, and breakfasts that require a tactical plan (so much choice). It’s the kind of place where you think: yep, I could happily stay a week… or three.
Skiing the Region: Five Mountains, No Stress
3 Zinnen may not be as vast as some of the Dolomiti Superski heavyweights, but it’s wonderfully balanced. The ski area spans five peaks – Helm, Rotwand, Haunold, Kreuzberg, and Comelico – linked together by modern lifts and an easy-to-follow layout.
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Mornings: We’d hit Helm, carving down long cruisers like the run into Versciaco, freshly groomed and empty enough to pretend we were racing the World Cup.
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Afternoons: Rotwand for a bit of challenge, or Haunold for softer, sunlit runs where you could ski and laugh at the same time.
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Breaks: Always well-timed at a hut with deckchairs.
It’s a resort that works for everyone. Beginners find gentle confidence-builders, intermediates lap wide reds all day, and stronger skiers can push their legs on steeper terrain – or head off-piste when conditions allow. We never once queued for a lift. Late season, it felt like we had the mountains to ourselves.
And off the slopes? The Südtirol Guest Pass was a revelation – free buses and trains across the region. No need to think about cars or taxis; we just hopped between villages and restaurants with ease.
Mountain Lunches Worth the Trip
Skiing makes you hungry – and 3 Zinnen doesn’t disappoint.
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Helmrestaurant: split between the rustic Helmstuben and panoramic Hennstoll, perfect for pasta and a beer in the sun.
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Luisalm: our favourite. It’s part traditional hut, part design project, with food that mixes South Tyrolean roots and a modern twist. I’ll be dreaming about that speck platter and homemade ravioli for months.
Every meal came with a view so good we had to remind ourselves to ski back down.
Evenings in San Candido
©wisthaler.com
Our base, San Candido, is the kind of village you picture when someone says “Dolomites.” Cobbled streets, pastel facades, a church spire piercing the skyline, and enough life to make evenings fun without ever feeling touristy.
Dinners here were highlights in their own right:
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ATTO: sleek, modern, and creative. The tasting menu is a must if you want to experience the full flair of South Tyrol on a plate.
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Pizzeria Ristorante Helmhotel: casual, lively, and serving what might be the best pizza I’ve eaten in years. We went back a second night without a hint of shame.
Walking back through quiet streets afterwards, we couldn’t help but feel smug. This was our kind of après.
A Region of Villages
One of 3 Zinnen’s charms is its collection of villages, each with its own feel. Sesto with its mountaineering history, Dobbiaco with its lake and family vibe, and Braies, home to that impossibly turquoise lake you’ve seen all over Instagram. With the Guest Pass in hand, they’re all within easy reach.
The Perfect Mini-Break
Our trip was short – just three nights – but it felt like a proper holiday. Boutique flights, seamless transfers, ski-in/ski-out hotel, slopes for every mood, mountain huts that make you linger, and a village with food so good it became part of the reason to return.
Late-season skiing can be a gamble, but in 3 Zinnen it was pure joy. Quiet slopes, long lunches, and the feeling of discovering somewhere still under the radar. For a quick Alpine escape, it doesn’t get much better.
If You Go: 3 Zinnen Fact Box
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Flights: SkyAlps flies into Bolzano from a number of European cities.
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Transfer: Südtirol Transfer offers direct shuttle connections from Bolzano Airport to Vierschach (approx. 2 hours).
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Stay: Hotel Joas – ski-in/ski-out, modern Alpine design, family warmth, and panoramic spa.
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Ski: 3 Zinnen Dolomites – 115km of pistes across five mountains, suitable for all levels.
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Lunch on the Mountain: Helmrestaurant (Helmstuben & Hennstoll); Luisalm.
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Eat in San Candido: ATTO for fine dining; Pizzeria Ristorante Helmhotel for unbeatable pizza.
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Get Around: Südtirol Guest Pass includes free use of all local buses and trains – perfect for exploring the region’s villages.
Main Image ©IDM Südtirol_Alto Adige_Alex Filz
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